ICE CLIMBING | Hyalite Canyon, Montana. [2020]

Ice climbing is a sport that involves ascending frozen formations on mountains or ice waterfalls. Its practice requires specific equipment to allow the climber to progress on icy terrain, such as crampons (attached to boots), ice axes (tools that must be embedded in the ice to propel upward), and ice screws for protection during the climb.

One of the icons of ice climbing in the USA, Hyalite Canyon, near Bozeman.

Hyalite Canyon is located about 40 miles from Bozeman, with easy access and over 250 ice routes for both beginner and expert climbers.

Road Closures: Unfortunately, the roads in this canyon are not open year-round. The entire road is closed from April 1 to May 15 each year due to rock slides and worsening conditions on the dirt road.

The best way to learn and progress in this sport is through training under the supervision of a mountain guide or professional expert, such as the team at Montana Alpine guides.

We were guided by Adam Knoff, one of the members of the incredible team at Montana Alpine guides, who served as our guides and mentors for the second consecutive year. Thanks to them, it was an incredible experience!

One of the most popular areas is "The Genesis", located on the west side of Sleeping Giant Mountain. This area is highly sought after due to its accessibility and great diversity of routes for both beginner and expert climbers. Some of the routes you can find in the Genesis area are:

• Genesis I – 60′ WI4-5 I
• Willow Gully – 60′ WI3 I
• Blackalicious – 50′ M5 I
• Short N Sweet – 50′ M4 I
• Ice 101 – 60′ WI2 I
• Clump Tree Gully – 60′ WI2 I
• Lower Green Sleeves – 90′ WI3 I
• Genesis II – 150′ WI4 II
• The Golden Mean – 70′ WI4 II
• Through Four More – 80′ WI4- II
• R Hang Over – 130′ WI3+ II
• Upper Green Sleeves – 200′ WI3 II
• Sleeping Giant Falls – 100′ WI4 II
• Zack Attack – 520′ WI5 5.8 IV
• The Soprano – 165′ WI2 II

⛰️MY RECOMMENDATIONS

• Start early: Especially if you plan to climb in the "GENESIS" area, as it is very popular and has limited parking capacity.
• Always come prepared with extra layers of clothing, food, and a headlamp.
• Don’t forget your helmet and protective goggles.
• Use the Alltrails app for digital maps (works offline).
• GOAL ZERO VENTURE 30 power bank (7800 mAh).
• HESTRA FALL LINE leather gloves.
• PETZL SWIFT TL: headlamp: Essential for dawn approaches or nighttime bathroom trips.
• To capture this incredible experience, we used GOPRO cameras, highly resistant to impacts and cold conditions like those we encountered.

To learn more about our adventures, follow us on Instagram @locoporlaaventura