Mount Hood is Oregon’s highest peak and one of the most imposing and iconic mountains in the Pacific Northwest.
Since moving to Oregon almost 9 years ago, Mount Hood has become one of those highly desired summits to reach, but for various reasons, it has also been the most challenging to accomplish.
Despite my experience and having summited dozens of peaks in Venezuela, Spain, Peru, and even the USA, Mount Hood had become that nearly impossible summit to conquer.
Since arriving in the USA, I’ve attempted to summit Mount Hood EIGHT TIMES without success. Yes, you read that right—EIGHT TIMES.
Due to various reasons like weather, cramps, or equipment issues, reaching this mountain’s coveted summit had become a immense challenge… until now.
After 8 attempts, improved physical and mental preparation, letting go of frustrations, and staying optimistic, I finally summited Mount Hood on Thursday, June 29 at 7:00 AM with 6 companions.
And today, I want to share this entire experience with you.
🛣️THE ROUTE
To achieve this long-awaited summit, we chose the ascent route from the south side, which involves climbing approximately 5,300 vertical feet.
Here’s a detailed description of the route we took:
We started at around 5,800 feet at the climbers’ trailhead in the Timberline Parking Lot and advanced along the eastern edge (right side) to avoid interfering with ski trails. A sign at the start of the climbers’ trail indicates this direction.
We continued past Silcox Hut at around 7,000 feet—this area has gentler terrain. Then we ascended to the top of Palmer (the end of the ski lifts), where we reached an altitude of approximately 8,500 feet.
We continued ascending along the eastern side until reaching the base of Devil’s Kitchen (10,400 feet), an area emitting sulfur fumes where extreme caution is required. We then moved to the north side of Crater Rock to find a wind-carved snow formation known as Hogsback.
Arriving at Devil's Kitchen Base. Starting to prepare for the rope teams.
At this point, we split into two rope teams of 3 climbers each and began moving toward the base of the Hogsback route. We descended on the opposite side (toward the north) and then ascended a large, steep, open face heading east.
We reached a chute that narrows and becomes even steeper (about 50° vertical) to the right. At the end of the chute, we reached a flat point about 50 meters from the summit. It’s worth noting that it’s also possible to veer slightly left near the top of the steep face, before reaching the chute, and gain the summit ridge via a very steep final slope. If choosing this option, it’s advisable to set up anchors using pickets for safety.
As we began ascending, adrenaline and excitement took over. Every step required immense physical and mental effort. The steep slopes, cold, snow, and muscle fatigue constantly challenged us. However, the desire to reach the summit pushed us forward.
As we progressed, the landscape transformed around us. The air grew colder and crisper, and the overwhelming silence of the mountain enveloped our thoughts. I felt in communion with nature, humbled by the grandeur surrounding me.
The ascent was not without difficulties. At various points, we faced dangerous crevasses and adverse weather conditions. But with every obstacle we overcame, our determination grew stronger. Supporting each other, we found the strength, courage, and knowledge to keep going.
At 4:14 AM, we reached one of the mountain’s first stops: Top of Palmer. Then at 4:59 AM, we passed the famous Devil’s Kitchen base and continued without fatigue toward our ultimate goal: the summit.
At 7:00 AM, I shouted at the top of my lungs: “SUMMIT!” from the top of Mount Hood. The fatigue vanished, replaced by the euphoria and excitement of achieving this long-desired goal I had pursued nine times.
The view from the top of Mount Hood was absolutely breathtaking. Mountains and valleys stretched as far as the eye could see, bathed in the golden light of the rising sun. I felt deep gratitude for the journey I had undertaken and for the opportunity to witness nature’s grandeur from this privileged and highly desired vantage point.
The descent was equally challenging, but our tired legs moved with determination. Every step downward brought us closer to safety and the satisfaction of having conquered such an iconic mountain.
At 11:50 AM, we completely descended the mountain, reached the parking lot, took off our snow boots, and said to myself… “I did it!”
Today, looking back on my climb of Mount Hood, I realize it was much more than a physical adventure. It was an experience that taught me the importance of perseverance, physical and mental training, and respect for nature—to understand that everything happens when conditions allow.
It reminded me that sometimes our greatest achievements are within reach if we dare to dream big and face challenges with courage, and above all, to know how to wait for the right moment.
So, if you ever have the opportunity to climb Mount Hood, I encourage you to do it. Just make sure to go with a good group experienced in mountaineering and, most importantly, ensure you have the necessary knowledge.
You’ll discover that the true gift isn’t just reaching the summit, but the transformative journey you undertake while climbing. Dare to conquer the sky and reach new heights in your life!
☀️CURRENT WEATHER
⛰️MY RECOMMENDATIONS
- Listen to your body: During the climb, listen to and respect your body. If you feel extreme fatigue, dizziness, or other concerning symptoms, stop and rest. Don’t ignore your body’s warning signs—safety must always be a priority.
- Enjoy the journey: Finally, remember to enjoy the journey and appreciate every moment. Climbing Mount Hood is a unique experience. Take time to admire the landscapes, connect with nature, and celebrate your achievements, regardless of whether you reach the summit or not.
Upon reaching the summit of Mount Hood, I experienced a mix of indescribable emotions. The journey was arduous, challenging, and at times exhausting, but every step was worth it. The mountain’s grandeur and the satisfaction of reaching the summit reminded me of the importance of pursuing our dreams and pushing our limits.
Climbing Mount Hood taught me that with determination, preparation, and a persevering spirit, we can conquer any mountain in our path, both literally and metaphorically.
View of Mt. Jefferson from Devil’s Kitchen
So, keep your eyes on the horizon, grab your crampons and go out and explore your own peaks!
Special thanks to Arcteryx Portland, for supporting us with technical mountain clothing.
What personal challenges have you set for yourself, and how have they inspired you to overcome them? Share your stories of conquest and personal growth in the comments, and let’s motivate each other to reach new heights!