One of the most popular climbs in the North Cascades, El Dorado Peak features a challenging hike with exceptional scenery. Endurance to reach the summit is more of a requirement than technical climbing skill. The knife-edge summit ridge is a classic of PNW mountaineering.
đŁď¸THE ROUTE
We started by hiking about 2.5 miles along the Sibley Creek Trail; here, at around 5,300 feet, we turned off to climb up to Sibley Pass (6,040 feet). There is a convenient trail to Sibley Pass that branches off from the main trail in a large boulder field. From Sibley Pass, we followed a boot-beaten path along a grassy ridge. The views here were stunning.
We descended north about 30 feet down a fairly steep snow slope, traversed east, and then approached our base camp for the next two nights (as seen in the photos below).
The next day, we woke up at 5 am under clear skies and started hiking an hour later. We descended a crevasse to enter a rock valley. It took us about an hour and a half to cross the valley and reach the other side of the ridge, where we encountered the glacier for the first time.
Gradually descending, we reached the southwest foot of the glacier at around 6,300 feet. We stopped for a nice break (rehydrating, eating, etc.), then put on our crampons and started hiking on the glacier.
Our group consisted of 8 people, including Gleen, The Mazamas guide, and me, who assisted on this climb. We split into three rope teams, but the pace was slower than expected due to the steep inclines. Additionally, I had small blisters that grew larger and larger as we walked. After hours of fighting gravity, we decided to take a long break and turn back. Although we were very close, we unfortunately did not reach the summit.
Blisters caused by boot and sock friction.
We began our descent around 1:00 pm and returned to camp in just over 5 hours (arriving at camp at 6:05 pm). The next day, we started our journey home, passing along quite steep ridges but with absolutely epic views.
The hike back to the parking lot took 4 hours. Again, this could have been done faster, but since I stopped to take photos and record video, the trip took longer than normal.
Itâs a North Cascades summit worth doing! WITHOUT A DOUBT!
 đď¸CAMPING
We set up camp in the first area we found that was somewhat flat and had water very close by. Part of the team slept in bivy sacks, which was very convenient in terms of lightening the load during the approach to the mountain. Despite a slight slope and uneven ground, it was a nice campsite with incredible views.
My rope partner, Mikel Rhodes, decided to camp on a small ledge along one of the mountainâs ridges.
PARKING/ENTRY PASS
El Dorado Peak is located in North Cascades National Park, but there is no entrance fee for the park. If you are camping along the route, you will need a permit, which can be reserved in advance or obtained on the day of or the day before your activity.
Pets are not allowed.
A permit for up to 12 people must be obtained at the Marblemount Ranger Station. The permit is free, and only 6 groups are allowed per day. Securing a permit is relatively safe due to the low number of people on this route.
A USFS NW Forest Pass is NOT required for parking at this trailhead.
âď¸ CURRENT WEATHER:
â°ď¸MY RECOMMENDATIONS
- Start very early in the morning (5 am) to climb while the snow is still firm, allowing for faster progress.
- Every climber should be trained and experienced in self-arrest, crampon techniques, rope management, glacier travel, first aid, and navigation.
- The Black diamond dry 7.9 mm  glacier rope, at only 39 grams per meter, is incredibly light and amazing.
- I recommend using a climbing helmet due to the danger of falling ice, rockfall, or slides on the ascent. Your helmet must meet climbing certifications, like the Petzl Sirocco Helmet.
- I recommend using the Alltrails for digital maps (you can use them even without phone service).
If you want more details/recommendations, contact me.
It was a super exciting experience, even though we didnât reach the summit. We enjoyed the entire process, and it was truly incredible to be there. If youâre thinking of climbing some mountains in the PNW, El Dorado should definitely be at the top of your list.